Brussels to Treves
Fürstenbergischem Palais 1845 – Beethoven statue - could this have been the posting inn?
When Fanny, in Brussels, learned that her husband (the “best beloved of my heart”) had been injured, she was determined to go to Trèves to take care of him. It was such a dramatic journey, it is no wonder that her husband urged her to write it up in a separate volume – Journey to Trèves – 1815
A letter was sent to Mme de Beaufort informing her about the accident that had befallen M.d’Arblay but it was only delivered to Fanny at about 3 o’clock on 19th July when Mme d’Henin and Colonel de Beaufort visited her with the news. She writes
“I ran over the Letter, & conceiving that the wound, from the entrance of the Iron hoof into so tender a part, which caused pain too acute to permit the poor sufferer even the use of his hand, must menace a gangrene, I called forth my utmost courage, & resolved to fly to him immediately.”
In a frenzy of anxiety, she set out that very evening, between 6 and 7 to go to his aid. She slipped out of Brussels totally unprepared, without proper clothing, money, directions or the necessary passports. She rushed to catch a coach and took one to Liége. Her thoughts and words were constantly about her most beloved husband. She wrote that she had,
“bills to pay, appartments to resign, Banker to demand money of, whom I missed twice and Friends to take leave of, who thought me so mad for undertaking, so circumstanced and at such perilous moment, such a journey that I was obliged to hide myself.”
In a letter of 20 August 1815, she writes to Lady Keith,
“the surrounding country was still infested with rambling Bonapartists and the Prussians, our dear Allies have conducted themselves with such imperious presumption upon the rights of conquest that to pass through any town of Belgium or Germany in which they have a military commander, is nearly as difficult for their bounden friends, as for their hostile enemies.”
Prussia had been allowed great parts of the Rhineland, including the cities of Cologne, Aix-la-Chapelle, Düsseldorf, Coblenz, and Trèves as compensation for great sacrifices after the victories against Napoleon in 1813-1815.
Wednesday 19 July – leaves Brussels - Thursday 20 July - Arrives to Liège
Liège
They passed the plains of Waterloo but it was dark so they could not be seen. They stopped at Tirlemont (in the Grote Markt) in the middle of the night for refreshment and arrived Liege at 9 am on 20th. Fanny was told she should not have come this way but should have gone straight south east to Luxembourg. Too late to change course. It was suggested that she go to Aix where she might hear of some conveyance to Trèves. The Diligence would set off for Aix in about an hour. But she had no passport and could not leave Liege without a passport from the Prussian Police Office. Being very rudely treated by the Prussian Commandant, she suddenly remembered the name of General Kleist, a Prussian Commander in Chief at Trèves and she was given a passport to Aix la Chapelle. While waiting for the Diligence to set out she was able to look around the town.
“The stroll, however, was short & unsatisfactory, for a mizling rain came on that soon watered me back. The entrance into this ancient City lies in a hollow almost surrounded by various small streams: & in fine Weather is a beautiful Valley, through which runs the Meuse, – a River of so much fame & frequent Name in History that I had raised expectations of it which were wholly disappointed, from the dinginess of its Colour, & from its want of any grandeur of width. The outside I saw of the antique Cathedral (the gothic cathedral of St. Paul in what is now the place Roi-Albert) looking so very old & so very brown, that it appeared at a distance like a weather-beaten Rock. The few streets, or rather Lanes, that I had opportunity of seeing, were ill built, narrow, intricate, hilly, & frightfully ill paved & dirty…”
Aix La Chapelle (Aachen)
Thursday 20th July – It was not till past Twelve at Noon that the Diligence set out by which I was to arrive at Aix la Chapelle. There was no conveyance to Trèves, so she had to take a Diligence to Juliers north-east of Aix-la-Chapelle and on the road to Trier by way of Bonn.
“At a more tranquil period I should have seized this interval for visiting the famous old Cathedral, & tomb of Charlemagne; but now I thought none of them;…”
Juliers (Judich) Friday 21st July (third day of journey)
“I arrived at Noon at Juliers…We stopt at a rather large Inn, at the head of an immensely long Market Place. It was nearly, at that moment, empty, except where occupied by straggling Soldiers, poor lame or infirm Labourers, women & children. The universal War of the Continent left scarcely a man unmaimed to be seen in civil life.”
Another problem over a Passport being demanded by Prussian authorities. She was only allowed to go as far as Cologne.
“Of Juliers I can give no sort of account, save that it seemed small, but well fortified. The women who met my Eyes were all fat, with very round & very brown faces. Most of them were bare-footed, nay, bare legged, yet had on odd small Caps, very close round their visages.”
Cologn
“Of the road & Journey from Juliers to Cologn I have not any memorandum, or remembrance, save that I entered it through an avenue said to be 7 miles in length, of Lime trees”
(road from Lindenthal into Cologn where it became Lindenstrasse and ran to the Neumarkt in the centre.)
“It was evening, but very light, & Cologne had a striking appearance, from its general magnitude, & from its profusion of Steeples. It’s Walls are 9 miles in circumference. It is one of the most ancient, & I believe largest Cities of Germany, founded by Agrippa – & Rubens was Born in it (he wasn’t born there but spent part of his childhood there). But its street are close built, narrow, & crooked; the houses are so high as to render them, also, dark. These have outside shutters from top to bottom, & Bars of Iron very generally to all the lower Windows. …The better sort of houses were white, & looked neat, though in an old fashioned style, & elaborately ornamented. But, between the ravages of time, & of War, the greater part of them seemed crumbling away, if not tumbling down…I beheld the famed & venerable Cathedral, but without any means to visit or examine it…”
Further trouble over a passport which the Prussians required. She was helped by one of the Prussian officers, who was actually French.
“He conducted me, in utter silence, to a house not far distant, passing through cloisters, & very retired in its appearance. Arrived at a door, at which he knocked, or rang, he still spoke not a word; but when an old man came to open it, in a shabby dress, but with a good & lively face, he gave him some directions, in German, & in a whisper, & then – entrusted with my Passport, he bowed to me very respectfully, & hurried away.”
It was the home of an elderly couple whose history of wretched misery she learned:
“Death, Misfortune, & Opression had all laid on them their Iron Hands; they had lost their Sons, while, forcibly, fighting for a Usurpation which they abhorred; they had lost their property by emigration; & they had been treated with equal hardness by the Revolutionists because they were suspected of loyalty, & by Royalists because their Children had served in the armies of the Revolutionist…”
She was able to stay with them until the gallant officer was able to get her a passport, only as far as Bonn but with a note which he had written himself which would allow her to extend it to Coblenz. At 3.30 am she set out for the Diligence arriving when it was about to leave but she did get a place on it and they set off for Bonn.
“my thoughts were so little Geographical that it had not occurred to me that Cologne was upon the Rhine; I had not, therefore, looked for or perceived it the preceding Evening:…I bent towards the Coach Window, & then all most obligingly facilitated my sight. But imagination had raised expectations that the Rhine, at this part of its stream, could by no means answer. I seemed neither so wide, nor so deep, nor so rapid, nor so grand as my mind had depicted it; nor yet were its Waters wo white or so bright as to suit my ideas of its fame.”
Bonn in 1795 under French rule – French troops planting the Freedom Tree with the Alte Rathaus at the end.
Bonn
22 July
“Bonn is a fortress and the residence of the ci-devant Prince Bishop of Cologne. The Palace is said to be a quarter of a mile in length. How modest and moderate are the Palaces of England compared with those of even the minor Potentates of the Continent.”
She was pained to learn they were to remain in Bonn for 2 hours…they had stopped at the Posting Inn, a “quite magnificent” house so she decided to while away the time in the Garden but being disturbed she decided to take a view of the Town. She went out by a large Iron Gate and made her way to a large market place which was gay and busy and alive. She looked for a marker and noticed with dislike a statue
“It was a short, thick, squabby little personage..the Wig I think, was blue; the Coat, Red, the Waistcoat, Yellow; the Sandals Green; the Trowsers, purple, and the Hose, pink…symbols either of Golden rays round the Wig, or of a Crucifix at the back, shewed that this hideous little Statue was meant for a young Jesus.”
She strolled about the vast Market-place, observing little besides Cattle, Toys, vegetables, crockery and cakes. Back at the Inn she was told the Diligence (public stagecoach) would not leave for another two hours so she set off again to wander about the town. She got lost and could not find the markers such as the hideous rainbow statue (An unhappy Divinity stuck in a Nich) or the Iron Gate. She looked for help but no-one – “dirty and ragged little Children chattering in German..” a good-looking, lame man, a poor Woman, a boy, then a beggar.
“I ran up to every soul I saw – speaking first in French, next in English, but meeting only with the lowest and most common Germans, who, like all other common Natives know only their vernacular tongue…Turn which way I would I met no possible informant; all the Men were in the various Armies; the higher sort of Women were fled from Bonn, or remained in their houses…
Oh! This was, indeed, nearly the most tortured crisis of misery I ever experienced!…To know my Heart’s Partner wounded – ill – confined – attended only by strangers; …Oh gracious Heaven! In what a distracting state was my Soul! – In a strange Country – without Money, without a Servant – without a Friend – and without Language!…” But suddenly she saw the hideous statue which she had called “Unhappy Divinity stuck in a Niche” and so knew her way to the Posting Inn. She arrived just as the Coach was departing. “The Horses harnessed, every passenger entered, and the Drivers with their whips in hand extended…
Coblenz
“My eyes opened to the beauties of nature; now it was that the far famed Rhine found justice in these poor little Eyes… From this time till my arrival in Coblenz, I thought myself in Regions of enchantment.
The Rhine from hence flows so continually through lofty Mountains, and winds in such endless varieties, that it frequently appears to be terminating in a Lake; and those who sail upon it must often believe themselves inevitably destined to land, as the turnings are so rounded, that no prolongation of the River is apparent. And scarcely is there a Reach that does not exhibit some freshly charming View. Mountains, Towers, Castles, of even Fortifications half demolished; interspersed with Trees, Hills, valleys, plains, elevations covered with vineyards, thick Woods of Lime Trees, country seats, new plantations and picturesque villages. The Houses were highly ornamental to the prospect, being mostly white, covered with blue slate; looking brilliant, however diminutive, because saved from all soil by the purity of the surrounding air.
At first, we had constantly The Seven Mountains to form a noble repose for our Eyes as the boundary of the principal prospect: afterward, we passed through such stupendous mountains on each side, that the Rhine and its Banks, which constituted our Road, made the whole of the valley; while stately Rocks of striking forms, and hanging woods, of exquisite beauty, invited, on one side, our gaze and admiration; and prospects eternally diversifying varied our delighted attention on the other. Now mounting some steep ascent, we saw this fine River winding perpendicularly beneath us, now descending again, the Rocks and Woods again seemed to embower us. Almost every eminence was crowned with an ancient Castle or Fortress whose falling Turrets and scattered fragments, moss grown, and widely spread around, gave as much interest and as great a charm to the scene, as they caused, on the other hand, sorrow, resentment, and even horror to the reflections; for these Ruins were not the indispensable effect of all conquering irresistible Time, to which we All bow, or rather, are bowed down, but of wanton, aggressive, invading War, and of insatiable ambition.”
Did not reach Coblenz till past 10 o’clock at night… They crossed Coblenz from east to west from Clemensplatz to the police office in Löhrstrasse.She once again had extraordinary problems getting a passport this time to Trèves. Unpleasant, abusive commandant, but a kind officer rescuer listened to her story and went back to the commandant to plead on her behalf, successfully. She got a seat on the morning’s Diligence and they set out soon after 4 o’clock the next morning (23rd July)
“The little I saw of Coblenz in quitting it had quite a new air; it looked clean, neat & white…the immense Castle, with Fort above Fort, on a high Rock is a noble object (Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein)…nor did I see, till the morning that Coblenz is situated on the confluence of the Rhine with the Mozelle. From Coblentz to Treves I was 2 Days travelling, though it might with ease have been accomplished in less than half that time…We no longer journied in any Diligence that may be compared with one of France or of England, but in a true & queer German carriage, resembling something mixed of coach, a chaise, & a cart…My eyes, though almost mechanically, were unavoidably struck by the beauty of the Moselle, & its Banks & prospects; & that my mind was frequently & revoltingly moved by the view, at every place where we stopt, whether for repast or for Horses, by the oppressive brutality with which the Prussian subaltern officers behaved to the poor subdued Inhabitants; swearing, storming, throwing about, with wanton violence, everything they did not want, & seizing without mercy everything that was to their taste…the Prussians took possession of it, for safety to the advanced troops of the allied Army, treated all the Dwellers of the Land as a Conquered people…”
From Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage
LVI.
By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground,
There is a small and simple pyramid,
Crowning the summit of the verdant mound;
Beneath its base are heroes’ ashes hid,
Our enemy’s,—but let not that forbid
Honour to Marceau! o’er whose early tomb
Tears, big tears, gushed from the rough soldier’s lid,
Lamenting and yet envying such a doom,
Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume.
The river nobly foams and flows,
The charm of this enchanted ground,
And all its thousand turns disclose
Some fresher beauty varying round;
The haughtiest breast its wish might bound
Through life to dwell delighted here;
Nor could on earth a spot be found
To Nature and to me so dear,
Could thy dear eyes in following mine
Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine!
Treves
At Trèves, at length on Monday Evening, the 24th of July,. 1815,
“I arrived after travelling one whole Night, & from 3 o’clock one morning, & from 4 o’clock 4 other mornings”. She was assured that M.d’Arblay was out of danger. “What a meeting of exquisite felicity.”
M.d’Arblay had been quartered at the house of Mr. Nell, but there was not room for Fanny and she was obliged most reluctantly to eat and lodge with Madame de La Grange in what is now Dietrichstrasse 40
“an old habitation of vast size, in which it was more easy to be lost than found, for the stair-cases were many…The Gates of entrance were of an enormous height, & of a breadth proportionate. What this mansion had been, or to whom appertaining, in its origin, I could not learn…I continued to repast & to lodge during my whole stay at Treves in this large, roomy, gloomy, straggling, spacious, old built, old fashioned, curious & dismal fabric.
Every night I was driven in my General’s Calesh, to this old place, which was at the end of so dark & dingy a street, that I never turned into it without fear of accident, though at the other end it opened into a far more spacious situation: & every morning, after Breakfast, one of the Family conducted me back to Mr. Nell’s: where I remained till the hour of Dinner…This was to me a cruel arrangement, forcing my so frequent absences; but I had no choice!”
In writing to her son, she was very enthusiastic about the country around Trèves.
“It was beautiful, grand, romantic, varied, NOBLE. The Moselle is the most enchanting River I have ever beheld, …it has not the splendour beaming from high historical imagery of the Rhine, where every reach mingles a moral lesson with its magnificent scenery: but there is a charm in its meandering loveliness, its verdant winding banks, …that makes it as innocently gay, & inviting to enjoyment, as the Rhine is beautifully sublime.. The Roads were superb & in as fine order as if the Roman Emperors who so often visited,…expected with all their pomp & all their legions, to survey the adjacent territories.”
M. d’Arblay was not fit to travel for another month. A specially converted open carriage was used for the trip across Belgium and France so he could travel with his leg raised so that no pressure was put on his wounds. M. d’Arblay was totally depressed as he realised how much the defeat at Waterloo had crushed France’s spirit.
“He felt severely shocked, when, at the Gates of Thionville, upon demanding admittance by giving his name, his military rank & his personal passport, he was disregarded & unheard, by a Prussian sub-officer – a Prussian to repulse a French General!…We re-entered France by the permission of Foreigners; & could only re-enter it at all by Passports of All the Allies! It seemed as if All Europe had freer egress to it than its Natives!”
Metz
They stayed 3 or 4 days while M. d’Arblay was attended by a surgeon of eminence, who did “what was now to be done to rectify the gross mismanagement at Trèves” Fanny visited the Cathedral, the artillery ground, the ramparts and the market place.
“But all looked dreary and abandoned: as everywhere during my Journey. Nothing was yet restored, for confidence was wanting in the state of things…”
Châlons-Sur-Marne – Vertus
“Not long after, I forget exactly where, we came under New yet still Foreign Masters; The Russians…On the Plains of Chalon there was a grand Russian Encampment.” She saw a large old house and was told that “the Emperor of all the Russias was at that moment its inhabitant…there was no crowd, no Guards…then the Emperor came out, in an undress uniform, wearing no stars nor orders…with an air of gay good humour, & unassuming ease & liveliness…”
Meaux
Fanny visited the cathedral where the famous orator and churchman Jacques-Bénigne Bossuet was buried. Fanny referred to him as “sublimely eloquent”.
Paris
Approaching Paris Fanny notes that they were
“intensely observant of the astonishing New Scene presented to our view, on re-entering the Capital of France, to see the vision of Henry V revived, & Paris in the Hands of the English!”
Following the route from Brussels to Trier
Liege - Parking the car
Aachen
Hohenzollernbrücke – padlocks with initials for loved ones
We left Brussels in a much less hurried manner than Fanny did. Though managing to negotiate our way out of the centre of the city was not easy as even the SatNav couldn’t detect the massive road works and road closures. But we were not in a hurry and finally got out of Brussels at midday. Our first stop was to be Cologne calling at Liège and Aachen on the way.
How different it is to travel in the 21st century from the early 19th century. German motorways are magnificent, there is not always a speed limit but the driving was, on the whole, disciplined. An occasional car sped past coming and going in a flash. The cars themselves are so comfortable and air conditioned. There did not seem to be as many electric cars in Germany as there are in England. It was Mercedes and BMWs and Audis which occupied most of the roads.
Liège
We saw signs to Tienen where Fanny’s coach had stopped when it was called Tirlement, but it was not on the motorway we were taking. We would not have been able to see the plains of Waterloo in any event. We got to Liège by 1.00 but as in Fanny’s day, it was drizzling with rain. We also saw the Cathedral of St. Paul which has been cleaned up since Fanny’s view of it.
Aachen
On to Aachen, another town which suffered tremendous destruction in the Second World War. So there is very little evidence of the houses or streets that Fanny describes. Today it is a flourishing young industrial town. The cathedral and tomb of Charlemagne are heavily restored and attract many visitors.
We had no problems with passports as Fanny had. Although the United Kingdom is no longer in the European Union, we only needed to show our British passport for entry to France and that was acceptable for the rest of Europe.
Cologne
At 3.00 in the afternoon, as the weather forecast had predicted a tremendous thunderstorm hit with lightning flashing across the sky. The storms made driving a nightmare but we did eventually arrive at our hotel in Cologne, Dorint Hotel am Heumarkt, a fairly large, modern, conference hotel with a vast characterless entrance area into which poured the attendees at some “management” conference.
We eyed “Harry’s Bar”, the only area that served food but it was packed with boisterous drinkers released from their day’s conference so we decided to go out to find a restaurant. We wandered down a dingy street, not unlike some that Fanny described, and looked around hopelessly for somewhere offering food. We drifted along to an area which looked more hopeful and stopped a couple of young women to ask for help. What a good instinct that turned out to be because after enquiring what sort of food we would like and suggesting tapas which we agreed to enthusiastically, they led us to a large square filled with people drinking and eating. In one corner of this very large square was an entrance to a much smaller are, a Hacienda, again filled with restaurants with customers eating at outside tables glowing from the overhead lighting. One of our guides went over to the far corner and spoke to a waitress. Our guide was the daughter of the owner so it was quickly agreed that we could have a table on the inside beside wide open glass doors. Our guides went off, saying they needed to get home because their classes started early in the morning but we were left to the care of a most efficient waitress. She recommended a rosé which was lovely and suggested which tapas we should try. All were delicious. Her English was strong and perfect so we asked if she was English. No, born in Cologne, but her female “partner” of 25 years was English and in the British army. Our waitress had accompanied her to many different postings; Ireland, Afghanistan, Iraq. She was now retired from the army and they were settled in Cologne. We were clasped to her bosom when leaving and warmly wished a good trip.
Next morning we visited the centre of Cologne and spent some time in the Cathedral. The cathedral had been badly damaged during World War II; it suffered fourteen hits by aerial bombs. Although badly damaged, it nevertheless remained standing in an otherwise completely flattened city. The twin spires were an easily recognizable navigational landmark for Allied aircraft bombing.
The building in 2007 Jean Housen - Own work
Maryly toasting our most enjoyable trip.
Bonn
Around midday we set off for Bonn down the Rhine. When Fanny was there, as a result of the defeat of Napoleon, it had just changed from being part of the first French Empire to being Prussian. It was the capital of West Germany after the Second World War and after reunification it was the seat of government but not the capital and it is still considered the second, unofficial capital of the country.
Fanny describes her experience in Bonn as being as frightening as her operation for cancer. It is really quite difficult to imagine her terrified running from one unidentifiable place to another in a small area around the centre of Bonn in 1815. The centre of Bonn in 2022 is entirely different. The “Historic Centre” is what Fanny describes. For us it was typical shopping and hospitality streets. We searched for the market. It was very warm so we stopped in Kaiserplatz, a grassed square surrounded on all sides by booths and stalls selling icecreams, coffee, cakes etc. There were many grateful customers.
Trier
A rainstorm was again threated for the afternoon and as the lightning and torrential rain the previous day had made driving extremely dangerous and slow, we decided to make straight for Trier without going to Coblenz. As Fanny enthused, the Moselle is very beautiful and the hills rising from the side were covered in rows of vines. We asked the wine waiter at the hotel which of the local wines he would recommend and we even went to the estate to get some to bring home. I don’t think Fanny would have been interested in the wines and the vineyards were probably not established until later in the 19th century. An evening stroll in the town centre, going through dozens of young people crowded round a wine bar in the Markt Platz, was interrupted by a lighter rainstorm. Shops lined the streets running into the Square. Department stores and clothing franchises from all over Europe competing with cafes and restaurants for space. The street that M. d’Arblay was housed in, Simeonstrasse runs straight out of the HauptMarkt with the Gates at Porta Nigra at the northern end. There was a small plaque to Karl Marx on one building near the Porta Nigra but no mention of General d’Arblay anywhere. Dietrichstrasse where Fanny lodged also ran out of the main square on the western side. She described it as “dark and dingy” so had to go the relatively short distance from 1003 Simeonstrasse to 40 Dietrichstrasse in a small carriage for protection. The street is no longer at all frightening. The place now belongs to the Jesuit order and retains many of the features Fanny described. There was one building which has the date ….on it. On Saturday morning stalls selling fruit and vegetables or flowers were set up in the Markt and the smell of the strawberries was so enticing we bought some to enjoy during the drive. White asparagus, green asparagus, artichokes all locally grown were laid out in profusion. It was the most wonderful sight.
Back to Paris
The end of our wonderful trip starting in Joigny going from Paris to Brussels, from Brussels to Trier and back to Paris. Maryly had driven about 1000 miles. The distance between each end point each day was 824 miles but we took the odd detour. So, can you imagine: Fanny would have taken 4 hours to do 20 miles. So, if she were nonstop it would have taken her about 10.5 days but of course she didn’t go 24 hours a day. A horse does about 4 mph when it is walking with a load. There you go! We were really fast to do it all in 8 days